Remove Tree Stumps in Sydney

We’ve just posted a discount code on OzBargains for $50 off tree removal. You can get $50 off your final invoice if you quote the code that is found at OzBargains. It is only valid for June and July 2018.

The Celtis  tree is also known as Hackberry or Sugarberry has migrated from the Northern hemisphere and is appearing in garden beds around Sydney.

This tree produces thousands of seeds which are spread by birds and before you know it you have a large tree in your backyard which requires an arborist to remove. Keep watch of them growing in your garden beds because both the tree and their stumps are very difficult to remove.

Shown is a picture of a 30 m tall Celtis tree which was growing out of a garden bed in Lindfield. The tree was growing out and over the neighbours pool, I’m sure the neighbour was happy the tree was removed.

Celtis Tree

Poisoning a tree stump*

After a tree is removed, often the stump will continues to grow and there will be sprouts of growth on the stump in the few weeks after it is lopped. If left untreated then the stump could potentially regrow into another near full sized and slightly disfigured tree. Removing the tree stump is the only way to prevent the tree stump from regrowing if poisoning and kill the stump is an unacceptable option.
The first thing that needs to be done is the tree must be cut to ground level, or the lowest level permitted by the terrain. Within 30 seconds of causing an injury to the stump or its roots a generous application of tree poison needs to be applied. Any delay in applying the poison may allow the tree’s cells to close up and the stump won’t accept the poison as readily. Use a chainsaw to cut grooves in the stump and roots and quickly apply the poison using an applicator or spray bottle. Drilling holes into the tree’s stump and roots is an equally effective option.

There are many products on the market that would be suitable to poison a tree stump. Glyphosate based liquid poisons are highly effective (such as Round-up, glypho 450, zero, etc) when applied in this manner. Make sure they are applied in dilute form and in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Wait around 6 weeks and then reapply in the same manner – making grooves in the timber before a quick application. If the poison is undiluted it will damage the cell membranes of the stump but not be absorbed by the plant which how they cause the stumps to die.

A common concern with glyphosate based poison is that it is considered a nasty toxic herbicide. In fact, it is one of the least toxic herbicides and it is not soil residual. This means that in 14 days from application it would be impossible to detect in the soil as it leaves without a trace. There is zero chance that glyphosate would poison plants that it was not applied to. So don’t get over zealous with your application and accidently exposed the other plants when you were applying it. There is the risk if it rained within 6 hours of application the poison could spread – so check the weather before applying. Also, in winter trees can have greater resistance to herbicides as the tree’s growth slows during this time.

For stumps that just refuse to die there are some serious heavy duty poisons available. Tordon has an injection poison, which is injected into tree stumps roots and causes rapid death. Graslan and Tordon have pellets which require drilling into the tree stump and inserting the pellets that get slowly absorbed. There are basal bark forms from Access, Garlon 600, and Starane which are also highly effective for those hard to kill stumps. We suggest using a glyphosate poison, but if it isn’t working then try the cut stump method with any product from Access, Garlon 600, Tardon, and Starane – they are guaranteed to do the trick.

If you can’t be bothered with poisoning your stump you could always get a professional arborist to come around and poison or remove the stump for you. Try the crew at Sydney Tree Removals as they are highly affordable and have an excellent reputation.

*The drill holes in the picture are incorrect, the ideal place to drill is just into the cambium layer which is just inside the bark.

Stump Removal Options

When it comes to stump removal, there are a few approaches than can be taken. There are so many myths and “simple solutions” that complicated the process because so many don’t actually work. The following is a list of common ways to remove stumps. This is based from experience in the arbour industry and should help prevent you wasting your time.

Chemical Removers
There are a few chemical remover products on the market, most of them are high in potassium nitrate. The product is spread on the stump and it is used to accelerate the decomposition of the stump. There is no product on the market that makes the stump disappear appear in weeks. This process will take months provided you follow the instructions – keeping the stump moist and covered – or it will even take years if it is a palm stump. Another cheaper option is to use a manure that is high in potassium nitrate like cow manure. This will achieve the same results as a chemical product. First drill holes into the stump, fill it with the manure, and then keep moist and covered. It will decompose as fast as nature will allow it. That is, unless you give it a helping hand by burning it – which brings us to the next stump removal method.

Burning
This is a common method of stump removal but is highly ineffective. It is rare for a stump to stay on fire since it sits deep in the ground and no enough oxygen is supplied to the fire. However, stump burning can work after the treatment of a chemical remover since it causes the stump to be more porus (allowing more oxygen in) and the potassium nitrate will provide fuel for the fire (so to speak). It still comes with a big risk: if you burn a stump you could end up with charcoal material that decomposes even slower than the stump, and is even more difficult to remove. So DON’T DO IT.

BUT… If you still have your heart set on burning that stump out of the ground there are a few things you can consider. (Your neighbours should definitely be a consideration!) But in addition to using a chemical additive to make the stump more porous before burning, you can build a makeshift open stove out of a large metal can or bucket, placing the stove over a portion of the stump and let it burn for a time. After you are satisfied that the area of stump has been burnt out, you should then move it to another area on the stump until the whole stump is removed. Make sure to remove any charcoal from the stump after each fire. If done right, this method can be an effective way to remove a stump. But generally, it should only be carried out in rural areas such as farms. In the suburbs or the city this is a big no no.

Grubbing
We wish there was small caterpillars we could use to remove stumps for us, but grubbing is actually the industry term for manual labour. Getting those gardening gloves out of the shed, grab your crow bar, mattock, shovel, chain saw, and dig the heck out of that stump. When you grub, you need to first dig a trench around the stump to as deep as you can go. From this you need to work in under the stump cutting off the roots and freeing the stump for removal. This can be really hard work and not a job for those with sensitive backs. If you stick at it long enough you will eventually get there.

Stump Grinders
Decomposition and grubbing can be used to get rid of stumps. However, some clever engineer was contracted by an arborists to make his job easier and came up with a stump grinder. This tools are machines who use rotating teeth to grind away a stump to below the ground level. This doesn’t get rid of all the running roots, but it does get it low enough that you can plant a flow garden, or cover it in dirt so natural decay can occur out of sight. Stump grinders can be hired, but it is recommended that you should hire an experienced arborist or landscaper to do this work because it can be very dangerous. Grinding a stump can take an hour or two, but setup and removal might add another two hours onto it. This still isn’t easy work and required a bit of elbow grease, but it is definitely the best option for stump removal.

If you’re looking to remove stumps from your property, consider talking to our favourite stump removal experts who can arrange a professional to remove that stump for you in no time and at a fair and reasonable price. If you end up doing it yourself, just be careful, it can be a dangerous task.

Bandit HB19XP Stump Grinder

Sydney Tree Removals is proud to announce that we have a new stump grinder to add to our collection of hard working arbor tools. It is a Bandit HB19XP manual self-propelled stump grinder. This is a lightweight, compact unit that can gain access to tight or confined locations. The stump grinder has a Honda engine so it has a lot of power and life in it. We are very happy to have a unit that can be easily moved to grind stumps in almost any location.

The Honda engine packs 13-horsepower and is controlled by a joystick that allows it to travel forward or reverse. It has an electric start and an electric clutch. But most importantly it features a 14 inch diameter cutter wheel with 12 carbide teeth. These teeth will tear through stumps in no time. We invested in this unit because there has been increased demand to have tree stumps removed in the back of small apartments blocks with limited access. Now we will be able to remove the stumps quickly, safely, and cost effectively.

Just a few more specification of our new stump grinder;

• Width 38 cm (15 inches)
• Height 137 cm (54 inches)
• Length 218 cm (86 inches)
• Weight 317 kg (700 pounds)
• Cutting depth 32 cm (12.5 inches)
• Cutting height 86 cm (34 inches)

So if you have a stump in a limited access location and you want that stump removed fast – you should contact Sydney Tree Removals for a free quote from a qualified arborist.

Not all stumps can be removed using a stump grinder. Professional arborists have a few tricks up their sleeves for removing difficult tree stumps.

Leveraged removal: Depending on the circumstances. This method requires manual or mechanical digging around the base of the stump, detaching any roots that might be problematic, and then applying appropriate leverage through a chain block system to pull the stump out of the ground.

Manual removal: This is the hardest way to remove a tree stump, by digging it out manually. This sometimes is the only option if the stump is located in a hazardous or confined location.

Chemical removal: This method requires a chemical stump removal product to be applied onto the stump to promote the decay of the stump. Stump removers are normally made of potassium nitrate (KNO3) and take between 4-6 weeks to make the stump rotten enough for it to be removed in fragmented pieces. The limitations of this method are the use of chemicals and it lacks immediate results. Sometimes people set stumps on fire after chemical treatment to speed up the removal process because the potassium nitrated once absorbed acts as an oxidizer, but we do not encourage this method as it is dangerous, and stump grinding is a fair superior, safer, and quicker option.

Contact a stump removal expert today for them to assess the best way to remove your stump.

Stumps can take years to decay naturally. The stumps are not only unsightly, but have the potential to be trip hazards or damage vehicles depending on their location and how low they are cut to the ground. In addition being potential safety hazards, they also can cause dangerous root rot diseases such as honey fungus that can affect the surrounding vegetation in your garden. Root rot is a cause of why many trees look unhealthy, and eventually die.

Stump Infected with Honey Fungus